Don't Fughedabout Brooklyn's Best

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 by Deborah Bogosian

While we acknowledge right up front that most out-of-towners headed to New York City probably wouldn't even consider bypassing the Manhattan canyon to sightsee in another borough, we're going to let you in on a little secret: Brooklyn is no longer the bridesmaid -- if it ever was. Fact is, if Brooklyn were a city unto itself (instead of being one of the five boroughs that make up New York City), it would rank as the fourth largest city in the U.S.

As a former resident near the ever-shifting border of Red Hook, and now a Park Sloper who commutes to "the City" (as Brooklynites refer to Manhattan), I am hard-pressed to think of a place to live that is as diverse and has as many small and great wonders as Brooklyn.

Urbane over-achievers and trend-savvy homesteaders who would have once worn their 718 area code with apology, increasingly do so with pride. Just ask Steve Buscemi, John Turturro, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Paul Giamatti, Rosie Perez, Adrien Grenier, Peter Sarsgaard or Keri Russell, who are among the celebrities who have found the virtues of living in Brooklyn.

Granted, Brooklyn doesn't have Manhattan's dazzling iconic skyline (its tallest building, the Williamsburg Bank building, is just 512 feet). And it's not quite "Sex and the City" chic. But it is as urban, in its own way as fabled, and every bit as diverse as Manhattan. Fast if you like it that way. Slow in ways that Manhattan could never be. More affordable on a few counts (though fewer of those as it becomes increasingly fashionable).

So if you've dashed through Manhattan's high points any number of times, aren't up for the intensity or just want to broaden your New York City literacy, consider spending time in the Borough of Kings. Here we offer some landmarks and great neighborhoods worth exploring. Most of these areas are about half an hour or 40 minutes from mid-town Manhattan (on a very good day), and all are accessible by subway.

Note: If you're looking to get a quick peek at some of Brooklyn's major neighborhoods and attractions, try  half-day tour from Manhattan with A Slice of Brooklyn. Current offerings include a 4.5-hour pizza tour and a four-hour neighborhood tour.

 Brooklyn Bridge

John and Washington Roebling's 1883 bridge -- then the longest suspension bridge in the world -- earned its iconic status despite disastrous beginnings. The elder Roebling died before the project began, and the younger, suffering from the condition we now know as "the bends," directed much of the project from his bed, observing the progress via telescope. Dozens of workers died during the bridge's 14-year construction, and people were trampled on its opening day. But the Brooklyn Bridge seems to have largely lived down its jaded past -- and is one of the greatest architectural icons in the world.

Must Do: Walk across! The bridge is a link between Brooklyn (more notably Brooklyn Heights) and Manhattan's downtown/Wall Street districts. Hint: From Brooklyn Heights or downtown Brooklyn, just walk toward the bridge and follow the signs to the pedestrian path. It's about a mile across, ending up in Manhattan at City Hall. From there you can jump on the subway back to Brooklyn, grab a taxi back, or just turn around and walk back over.

Why: The Manhattan skyline viewed through the cross-hatching of the bridge's steel cables is a classic sightseeing experience in New York. And it's free!

What's More: A walk across the bridge feels like a "Go Dog, Go" scene, with all stripes of cyclists, stroller pushers, joggers and camera-toting tourists moving across its span as so many cars (140,000 a day) rumble through below -- with the boats below them, and the subway trains underground beneath the boats. The Brooklyn Bridge is said to be the only bridge in the world where this kind of mobility hero sandwich can occur.

Pre-Trip Tip: Rent "Kate and Leopold," a movie starring Meg Ryan, Hugh Jackman and the Brooklyn Bridge.

Getting There: Combine a Brooklyn Bridge walk with a visit to Brooklyn Heights, DUMBO or downtown Brooklyn. These neighborhoods are about a half-hour to/from Midtown Manhattan. Suggested subway stops (for Brooklyn Heights): 2-3 to Clark Street, A-C to High Street, or 2-3-4-5 to Borough Hall (not "Jay Street/Borough Hall," which is a different station).

Brooklyn Heights

Brooklyn Heights is a charming historic neighborhood located just south of the Brooklyn Bridge. Its waterfront promenade offers magnificent views of Manhattan's downtown, and the neighborhood's tree-lined streets are known for their prime 19th-century homes and churches.

Bit of History: Brooklyn Heights emerged in the early 1800's as Manhattan's first suburb. But its historical significance dates even earlier: It was from Brooklyn Heights that George Washington decided to retreat across the East River in the Battle of Brooklyn, in 1776.

Fun Fact: While "Breakfast at Tiffany's" may be a quintessential Manhattan story, Truman Capote wrote it in his Brooklyn Heights apartment (on Willow Street).

Added Attraction: The subterranean New York Transit Museum (Boerum Place and Schermerhorn Street) -- itself a 1930's subway station -- has vintage token machines and turnstiles, full-scale buses for kids to "drive" and displays that trace the mammoth undertaking to construct New York's subway tunnels. Dash in and out of the vintage subway cars (check out the period ads) for a fun transportation time warp.

Shop Op: Montague Street is Brooklyn Heights' main commercial strand. At the outpost of Fishs Eddy -- the Manhattan emporium for dishes -- you'll find a selection of vintage hotel and restaurant patterns as well as contemporary designs like the New York skyline dishes or the Brooklynese coffee service ("Sugah," "Cawfee," "Creamah"). And the "Heros of the Torah" mugs might be perfect for that special someone on your gift list.

Eat At: The upscale River Cafe (1 Water Street), perched on the water, offers the Promenade view -- and is one of New York's longtime favorites. Or get the same view -- way lighter on the wallet if not on the calories -- with a cone from the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory next door. In the heart of Brooklyn Heights is a marvelous array of ethnic eateries from Cuban to Turkish, Italian to French. We love the romantic Henry's End (44 Henry Street), which serves nouvelle American cuisine.

Getting There: About a half-hour from Midtown Manhattan. Subway: 2-3 to Clark Street, A-C to High Street, 2-3-4-5 to Borough Hall (not "Jay Street/Borough Hall," which is a different station). 

DUMBO
Like Manhattan's SoHo or NoLiTa, Brooklyn has its "cool acronym" neighborhood: DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). For years DUMBO, in the shadow of the bridges and warehouses, was an industrial, concrete jungle. But as these things go, the warehouses attracted artists, and then the next layers of arrivistes, and so on -- and now DUMBO has joined the growing list of hot Brooklyn's hot neighborhoods.

Go To: Brooklyn Bridge Park/Empire-Fulton Ferry State Park, at the edge of the East River. Why? These adjoining parks -- ultimately to become an enormous contiguous park extending along the waterfront -- offer an amazing vista. Kids on the playground can steer a jungle-gym pirate ship while the Q Train rumbles over the Manhattan Bridge to the right, the glorious Brooklyn Bridge is on the left, and the East River and Manhattan skyline straight ahead. Perhaps no playground can boast such fantastic real estate -- and such incredible views.

Eat At: Across from the park, Bubby's (1 Main Street at Water Street), a sibling to the Manhattan restaurant of the same name. The din here nearly matches the volume of the trains on the Manhattan Bridge, but don't let that dissuade you. It's a fun place that feels much older than its 16 or so years. Enormous brunches, lively chatter -- and homemade pie.

Getting There: About a half-hour or more to/from Midtown Manhattan. Subway: F to York Street, the first stop in Brooklyn.

Red Hook
The rough-hewn, isolated port neighborhood of Red Hook, cut off by the Brooklyn Queens Expressway and far from a subway line, is in many ways an unlikely candidate for any hot list. But lately that's changing, perhaps all the more so with the vibrant and curious crowds the recently added cruise ship port has added to the mix. As the crow flies, Red Hook is pretty darn close to Manhattan, but it couldn't be further in sense or sensibility.

Like so many neighborhoods in Brooklyn right now, Red Hook is on its way up. Trendy bars and galleries are popping up like daffodils on vacant lots -- though there's still plenty of dilapidation in between the blooms. There's also a great deal of political and social tension around Red Hook's future right now, as salty longtimers and artists who came for the cheap rent and relative isolation resist the inevitable arrival of Ikea, a giant Fairway supermarket, and luxury condos. Van Brunt Street is about as close as Red Hook gets to a commercial strip.

Sugar and Spice: Along Van Brunt Street is Baked (416 Van Brunt Street), Brooklyn's answer to Manhattan's famous Magnolia Bakery.

Eat At: Restaurant 360 (360 Van Brunt Street) for French fare and a little bit of attitude. Or for a more casual lunch try Hope and Anchor (347 Van Brunt Street at Wolcott Street). Another good option in the neighborhood is Ferdinando's Focacceria (151 Union Street) which has been serving Sicilian fare for more than a century. For a quick takeaway try the Panelle Special, an addictive sandwich of fried chickpeas and ricotta.

Local Color: On weekends from spring to fall, Red Hook's soccer fields (at Bay and Clinton Streets) turn into a Latin American food festival. Vendors line the park's periphery, and it's a conspicuously make-shift sort of setup, about as far from fancy as it gets, but the food is authentic and cheap. Get some horchata -- a delicious sweet milk made from rice.

Getting There: Red Hook is about a half-hour taxi ride (or longer) from mid-town Manhattan. Nearest subway stop is the F stop at Smith and 9th Street -- a bit dicey, and there are some pretty steep stairs, and it's a very long walk from there to Red Hook, so do yourself a favor and just take a taxi. (Tip: Announce your destination after you're in the cab. If the driver balks about coming to Brooklyn -- and some do -- insist. They have to take you.) The B61 and B77 buses go to Red Hook.

Downtown Brooklyn
While much of downtown Brooklyn is relatively uninteresting and unfashionable -- the shopping streets lean toward 99-cent housewares, $9.99 clothing or $299 divorces -- there are a few things worth seeing and doing here.

Go To: Atlantic Avenue. It actually extends from water's edge in Brooklyn all the way through the borough, but the downtown section, roughly between Court Street and Flatbush Avenue, is a prime example of Brooklyn's seemingly unlikely but surprisingly harmonious commercial melange: Here antique stores mix it up with the Avenue's large number of Middle Eastern shops and latest crop of trendy design boutiques -- with an unlikely assortment of other establishments, including a curious herb shop that advertises "A cure for everything except death."

Shop Op: Sahadi's (187 Atlantic Avenue), a landmark establishment that's been selling the olives, spices, dried fruits and nuts, and international foods since 1948. Even if you don't buy anything, it's a visual feast.

Eat At: Junior's (386 Flatbush Avenue Extension at Dekalb Avenue) has been victorious in cheesecake wars for more than a half-century. And if even the greatest cheesecake doesn't curry much favor with you, Junior's is still worth a visit for the enormous breakfasts, extensive diner menu and friendly service.


Culture Stop: The Brooklyn Academy of Music (commonly known as BAM) is a landmark institution for concerts, plays, musicals, film screenings, ballet performances and other cultural offerings. It's Brooklyn's answer to the Lincoln Center.

Getting There: About a half-hour to/from Midtown Manhattan. There are many subway options with stops in and around downtown Brooklyn.

Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill
Brooklyn Heights gives way to Cobble Hill and Cobble Hill gives way to Carroll Gardens (and Carroll Gardens gives way to Red Hook, though the boundaries seem to be continually shifting as Red Hook becomes more hip). This is the Brooklyn of "Moonstruck" (alas, the bakery featured in the movie has now closed), and though much is changing, there is still plenty of evidence of the Italian community here amid the quiet residential streets. Both Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens are less gentrified than the Heights, but the Manhattan migration across the river is clearly making its mark here too. Carroll Gardens' Smith Street has become Brooklyn's "restaurant row" (and you might want to venture to the parallel street of Court as well) as fashionable bars and eateries have replaced the neighborhood's worn bodegas, botanicas, and mom-and-pop bakeries -- you can decide whether that's for better or for worse.

Eat At: Lots of good options along Smith Street. For a trendy French bistro vibe, try Robin des Bois (also known as Sherwood Cafe, located at 195 Smith Street) or Bar Tabac (128 Smith Street). Or head over to Court Street where Sweet Melissa (276 Court Street), the finest patisserie in Brooklyn if not in all the boroughs, offers afternoon tea service from 1 - 5 p.m.

Shop Op: Stick around Smith Street and don't miss Refinery (248 Smith Street) for chic, handmade purses and pillows -- and dash into other hip boutiques that catch your eye.

Getting There: Maybe half an hour to/from Midtown Manhattan. Subway stops: F to Bergen Street or Carroll Street.

Coney Island
Think faded nostalgia. Even with recent efforts to buff it up a bit, Coney Island is still a bit tawdry, but its nostalgic pull puts it in the must-do category, if only to say you've been there.

Go To: Ride the Wonder Wheel at Deno's or the Cyclone at Astroland (well over 80 years old, it still holds its own against today's high-tech G-force machines) -- and if those don't leave you slightly queasy, the fried Boardwalk fare might (although these days there are a number of interesting new cafes and restaurants offering much more than the pedestrian hot dogs and fries).

Don't Miss: The daily shark feeding at the New York Aquarium (Surf Avenue and West 8th Street). Also: "Alien Stingers," where spotting a lone tentacled blob undulate in a blue-glowing tank is both bizarre and beautiful. Who knew jellyfish could be so lovely?

Fast Pitch: The Brooklyn Cyclones. Dem bums the Dodgers are long gone, but the Cyclones hold new promise for Brooklyn's baseball lovers. The minor league team, part of the New York Mets' organization, plays at the new Keyspan Park just off the Boardwalk in Coney Island.

Getting There: The D-F and N-Q subway lines all end at Coney Island.

Park Slope
Whadaboudit: Park Slope, the "slope" leading to Prospect Park, has a great feel of the historic brownstones, progressive social scene (the largest food co-op in the country is here), and families. Begin your Park Slope visit on Seventh Avenue -- and then head two blocks up along any of the residential streets (3rd Street is the most grand) to Prospect Park, or stroll two blocks down to trendy Fifth Avenue. In the Slope, stroller-pushers wend their way in and out of the local shops and restaurants, and almost everything here, including bars, is kid-friendly without being childish. Case in point: Tea Lounge (837 Union Street at Seventh Avenue), where the mix-and-match sofas and chairs are occupied by freelancers and their laptops and couples of all persuasions drinking strong coffee or stronger cocktails. There's peanut butter and jelly on the menu and a regular story time for tots.

Eat At: The Slope has a great mix of restaurants, and while they're generally priced to reflect the fact that they're on premium commercial real estate, there are moderate choices too that run the gamut -- falafel, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Tex-Mex, Thai. Everything's family-friendly, but especially the cacophonous Two Boots (514 2nd Street near 7th Avenue). This twin to the Manhattan restaurant of the same name serves up Cajun/Italian melange (Louisiana, Italy -- both boot-shaped, get it?). Here the pizza guy will toss the little ones a wad of pizza dough to keep them occupied while parents sip Bloody Marys in mason jars with pickled okra garnish. Tip: Got toddlers? Bring quarters. A ride on the mechanical alligator outside is a must.

More Eats: For a real neighborhood experience grab a bagel at La Bagel Delight (Seventh Avenue and 5th Street and further down, between Carroll and Union Streets), featured in scenes from Paul Auster's "Brooklyn Follies." The enormous warm bagels will make you understand the difference between the real thing and a bulk pack of Lenders from Costco -- and you may never turn back. Just be prepared to assertively claim your spot in the busy line and bellow out a rapidfire order to the counter staff. A word to the wise: Never order your bagel toasted in a real New York bagel shop (the idea being that fresh bagels simply don't need it).

Drinking: Patio Lounge (179 Fifth Avenue) is a bar trendy enough to buck the Park Slope's family-friendly demographic by posting a "No Stroller" manifesto on its doors. It caused quite a stir in the neighborhood.

Shop Op: Scaredy Kat (229 Fifth Avenue) has an excellent selection of cards and gifts; Bierkraft (191 Fifth Avenue) features international beers, fine chocolates, cheeses, and other gourmet food items; 3R Living (276 Fifth Avenue) specializes in environmentally friendly, organic and sustainable design products. The Brooklyn Superhero Supply Company (372 Fifth Avenue), an amusingly earnest store that's really a front for a community writing center (see if you can find the secret door). The Superhero Supply Company really does sell realistic and rather nicely designed superhero capes, ray guns, decoding devices, X-ray specs, and all manner of goops and sprays with various powers. But take note: If you want to make a purchase you have to recite (preferably with a straight face) an oath to use your superpowers only for virtuous causes.

Hot Tip: Fifth Avenue is definitely the new black for trend-conscious shoppers and diners (and drinkers) in Brooklyn -- rivaling Carroll Gardens' Smith Street.

Getting There: Park Slope is about a half-hour (or longer) to/from Midtown Manhattan. Subway stops: F to Seventh Avenue, 2-3 to Grand Army Plaza, B-Q to Seventh Avenue (at Flatbush).

Prospect Park

Grass! Space! And not only does a tree grow in Brooklyn, but in Prospect Park there's a whole forest -- the last one left in the borough. This 585-acre park was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux after Central Park, and many people (okay, they're all Brooklynites) claim it's the better of the two efforts. There's no real agenda here; just meander and enjoy the people enjoying soccer, baseball, kite flying, and that favorite New York City sport, extreme Sunday Times reading.

Don't Miss: The Prospect Park Carousel, ca. 1912. It rivals the one in Central Park (which, ahem, was built in Brooklyn).

Also in the Hood: The Brooklyn Botanic Garden (1000 Washington Avenue) is Serenity in the City -- cherry trees, rose gardens, lily pool, Japanese pond. The Brooklyn Museum (Eastern Parkway) is the second-largest art museum in the world, boasting extensive collections ranging from Egyptian sarcophagi to traditional African art to contemporary painting and sculpture. Before venturing in, stop to watch the hypnotic pulsating water sculpture on the museum's new plaza. It's fun to watch the jets of water shoot in ever-changing patterns -- and even more fun to watch the neighborhood kids try to dodge the security guards and catch some spray.

Eat At: Bring a picnic, grab a hot dog from a vendor cart, or eat at the Botanic Garden's outdoor cafe (sandwiches, chili, burgers and one of the best veggie burgers we've had).

Getting There: Prospect Park is large and there are plenty of entry points from the surrounding neighborhoods. But the best plan is to go to Park Slope and go in from there -- at 3rd Street or 9th Street. Park Slope/Prospect Park is about a half-hour (or longer) to/from Midtown Manhattan. Subway stops: F to Seventh Avenue, 2-3 to Grand Army Plaza. For the Brooklyn Museum of Art and Brooklyn Botanic Garden, the 2-3 has a stop directly in front.